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CHEMICAL FAQ | POOL CARE GLOSSARY
Sometimes we all need a little help clarifying pool product lingo. Here are 11 Frequently Asked Questions regarding pool chemicals and additives.
POOL CHEMICALS FAQ
1) What are the proper levels and ranges for achieving crystal-clear pool water?
When testing the pool water, one must check for pH, free chlorine, and bromine levels. This chart offers the proper levels for clear, clean water.
Test Factor |
Ideal Range |
Free Chlorine |
1.0 to 3.0 ppm (parts per million) |
Total Bromine |
1.0 to 3.0 ppm |
pH |
7.2 to 7.6 ppm |
Total Alkalinity |
80 to 150 ppm |
Calcium Hardness, plaster pool |
200 to 275 ppm |
Calcium Hardness, all other pools |
125 to 300 ppm |
2) The pool water is cloudy. What is causing this?
Cloudiness often results from improper pH level, a dirty filter, low free chlorine, or high total alkalinity.
For improper pH levels, use Blue Wave pH REDUCER to achieve a pH of 7.2 ppm-7.6 ppm.
To ensure proper filter cleanliness, check filtration system and backwash if necessary. Use Blue Wave FILTER CLEAN regularly, and Blue Wave SUPER SHIMMER to enhance filter efficiency and add a little sparkle to the pool water.
To rectify low free chlorine situations, shock with Blue Wave BLAST OUT, CHLOR-BURST, or BLITZ to bring free chlorine level to the ideal range of 1-3 ppm.
To combat high total alkalinity, use Blue Wave pH REDUCER to bring total alkalinity to 80-150 ppm.
3) The pool water is green. How can it be cleared?
Green water often results from the existence of green algae, or copper in the fill water.
To annihilate green algae, use Blue Wave ph REDUCER or pH INCREASER to adjust pH to ideal range of 7.2 - 7.6 ppm. Next, shock with Blue Wave BLAST OUT, CHLOR-BURST, or BLITZ and wait six to 12 hours. Treat pool with Blue Wave HALT 50 Algaecide on a weekly schedule to prevent reoccurrence.
4) The pool water is reddish brown. What causes this, and how can it be cleared?
Brown water normally results from dissolved iron or manganese in the pool water. Use Blue Wave pH INCREASER or pH REDUCER to adjust pH to 7.2 - 7.6 ppm. Treat with Blue Wave SUPER RUST & SCALE as directed, and run the filter until clear.
5) The pool water is irritating to both skin and eyes. What's happening?
When the water is uncomfortable, likely the combined chlorine (chloramines) level is too high, or the pH level is too high or low.
To address the chlorine level, shock with Blue Wave BLAST OUT, CHLOR-BURST, or BLITZ. Circulate the water overnight; then test and adjust free chlorine residual to an ideal range of 1-3 ppm. This may require another shock treatment.
When pH is out of proper range, use Blue Wave pH REDUCER or pH INCREASER to adjust pH level back to 7.2 - 7.6 ppm.
6) The chlorine odor is very strong. Is there a problem?
When a strong chlorine smell exists, likely the combined chlorine (chloramines) level is too high. Shock with Blue Wave BLAST OUT, CHLOR-BURST, or BLITZ. Circulate the water overnight; then test and adjust free chlorine residual to an ideal range of 1-3 ppm. This may require another shock treatment.
7) It looks as though some calcium scale has formed. How can this be removed?
Scale can form when pH, total alkalinity, or calcium content in water is too high.
In the case or high pH, use Blue Wave pH REDUCER to bring pH level to 7.2 – 7.6 ppm. To lower total alkalinity, use Blue Wave pH REDUCER to bring pH level to 100 – 150 ppm. When calcium content is out of range, use Blue Wave SUPER SCALE & RUST as directed.
8) There is visible corrosion on metal parts of the pool equipment. What is causing this?
Such corrosion likely is resulting from a low pH or total alkalinity level.
To address pH, add Blue Wave pH INCREASER to bring pH level to optimal range of 7.2 – 7.6 ppm. When alkalinity is low, use Blue Wave ALKALINITY INCREASER to raise total alkalinity to 80 – 150 ppm.
9) Chlorine usage is high. How can this be resolved?
Chlorine usage always increases with the high temperatures of the season. We advise using Blue Wave STABILIZER at the start of the pool season, along with stabilized Blue Wave chlorine (try the 3-inch SANITIZING TABLETS) throughout the season.
10) How do I know if the situation exists where an algaecide is required?
According to the Do-it-Yourself resource guide at EHow.com, although shocking your pool is truly the only way to remove algae overgrowth, using algaecide and clarifier is a wise preventative measure for any pool owner. Prior to using algaecide or clarifier, it is vital to work through the following checklist (from A through D) to determine whether to use these chemicals.
A. Check your pool chemistry and filter. Sometimes you may just need to adjust the pH or perform some basic filter maintenance to clear up any cloudiness or murkiness in the water.
B. Determine what type of algae growth—if any—exists in the pool. When possible, prior to treatment, find out what kind of algae exists.
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Green or yellow algae can be handled with a pool shock.
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Chlorine-resistant algae, like mustard algae and "black" algae, can be cleared up with algaecide and clarifier treatments.
C. Shock your pool, adjust the pH, and wait a day. If the problem remains and the water still looks wrong, proceed with algaecide and clarifier. Know that a jug of algaecide and clarifier from the local superstore will not do the job. We recommend Blue Wave HALT 50, a nonmetallic, concentrated, low-foaming formula that treats up to 240,000 gallons of water simply and effectively.
D. Know the difference between the two chemicals, as you may only need one of them.
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Algaecide prevents algae from growing in your pool in the first place, aids maintenance of proper pool pH, and heightens pool filter performance. When algaecide is used, there is less waste in the pool filter to process.
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Clarifiers coagulate fine particles floating in the pool, allowing the filter to properly remove the particles and lift any cloudiness from the water.
Quick tip:
Always purchase algaecide and clarifier from an authorized Internet Blue Wave Dealer, and avoid combining different brands of chemicals that cannot possibly work well together.
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11) How can copper stains in the pool be avoided or removed?
According to the Do-it-Yourself resource guide at EHow.com, copper stains in swimming pools are caused by adding too much copper chelate algaecide. The chemical gets rid of the algae in your pool, but too much of it will cause staining. Even the smallest amount of copper will stain a pool.
To prevent copper staining, follow this step-by-step guide:
1. Balance the swimming pool water balanced at all times, as this will prevent the need for chemicals that cause stains.
2. Test the pool water for pH, calcium hardness and algae levels each week.
3. Treat the pool immediately at the first sign of imbalance to avoid having to use algaecide that causes copper staining.
4. Shock the pool regularly, but balance the pool water to the proper pH right after every shock treatment. This will prevent the pool from developing enough copper to stain.
5. Use a sequestering agent if a copper chelate algaecide is employed. Add sequestering agent to the pool periodically if there is a metal heater, pipe fittings or plumbing. This will prevent copper from building up in the pool.
Quick tip:
If the pool has recently been filled, add the sequestering agent to monitor copper levels.
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6. Monitor the pool pH after adding the sequestering agent.
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POOL CARE GLOSSARY
Browse this list of commonly used terminology relevant to swimming pool additives, chemicals, and water care.
Acid demand: A titration test used to determine proper amounts of acid (or pH reducer) to reach correct levels for swimming pool water. For example, to lower pH from 8.0 to 7.6, pool water may "demand" 2 quarts of acid.
Algae: Various forms of microscopic plant life that grow rapidly and multiply in the presence of light. Many varieties of algae exist, some free floating, and some surface-oriented. Some forms of swimming pool algae are more resistant to chlorine than others.
Algaecide: (or algicide): Substance used to prevent or get rid of algae—especially the green scum in a swimming pool. Usually copper sulfate and chelated copper. Polyquat is the common name for a class algaecide that is chemically mostly n-alkyl-dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. Some dialkyl monomethyl isomers also are included. The alkyl groups usually are C14 and C16. The common name polyquat derives from its compounds: POLY-alkyl QUATernary amines.
See Blue Wave algaecides: Halt 50, Eliminator, Black Zapper, Concentrated Algaecide, Eradicator 60, Terminator.
Quick tip:
According to eHow.com, swimming pool algaecides and clarifiers prevent chlorine-resistant algae from growing, are particularly useful during low-chlorination periods. and can save money because less chlorine is required when algaecide and clarifier are used regularly. Though shocking a pool is truly the only way to dispel algae overgrowth, using algaecide and clarifier is a wise preventative measure for any pool owner.
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Algaestat: An algaecide kills algae, while an algaestat retards and prevents its genesis and growth in a swimming pool.
Aluminum Sulfate: Substance used as a flocculent to attract suspended particles in swimming pool water—as with green or cloudy pools. A small amount also may be used as an
additive to a pool's sand filter.
Bacteria: Germs that enter a swimming pool or spa by way of users, and from the surrounding environment.
Bactericide: A product that kills bacteria. For example, Chlorine is a bactericide and germicide. Silver "algaecides" are actually are bactericides, useful on pink "algae."
Balanced pool water: The correct ratio of mineral content and pH that prevents water from becoming corrosive or scale forming.
Broadcast: Widely spreading pool chemicals in powder form over a swimming pool or spa surface.
Bromine (also see Sanitizer): An alternative sanitizer sometimes used in place of chlorine. Bromine is well suited to spas and indoor pools, as it lasts longer in high heat and has no chlorine odor. Due to its slow-dissolving nature, when Bromine is used in a pool, it must be dispensed by an automatic pool chemical feeder.
Calcium Carbonate: (see Scale)
Calcium Chloride: A soluble white salt used to raise the calcium hardness of a pool.
Calcium hardness: The amount of dissolved calcium in pool water. Hardness readings should be approximately 150-175 ppm (parts per million) for vinyl-lined pools; 240-300 ppm for concrete or plaster pools.
Quick tip:
High hardness can cause cloudy water and scale. Lower levels of hardness can damage pool surfaces and equipment.
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Chloramines:
A chlorine cell that has "died" due to its combination with a contaminant (such as ammonia or nitrogen) so that it is now useless for maintaining the pool. It emits a strong chlorine odor, which is not a sign of too much chlorine in the pool water, but rather, too little available for sanitizing. These compounds are formed when chlorine combines with nitrogen from urine, perspiration, suntan crèmes and oils, and other personal products. Chloramines cause both skin and eye irritation.
Chlorine (Also see Sanitizer): The most efficient and widely used sanitizer for pools, found in two types:
1) Nonstabilized inorganic chlorines such as calcium hypochlorite, lithium, and sodium hypochlorite;
2) Stabilized organic chlorines, preferred for their stability in the presence of sunlight.
Chlorine demand: The amount of chlorine required to eliminate swimming pool contaminants. Chlorine may be needed in large quantities before chlorine demand is satisified.
Chlorine residual: The amount of free chlorine found in a swimming pool.
Clarifier (Floc): A non-ionic polymer flocculent that causes particles/solids in pools and spas to mass together, thereby creating larger particles for easier removal via the pool's filtration system.
Cyanuric acid: A chemical compound that protects chlorine from loss due to sunlight. Also referred to as Stabilizer.
Diatomaceous earth (D.E.): A fine, powdery substance that comes from the calcified remains of prehistoric single-celled marine animals. The porous substance is an effective filtration media.
Disinfectant: Pool chemicals that kill undesirable (pathogenic) organisms. Examples of disinfectants are chlorine, bromine, ionizers, and copper/silver algaecides.
DPD test: The test reagent used to measure and indicate chlorine levels. The presence of chlorine turns the test indicator to pink.
Dry acid (Blue Wave pH REDUCER): A granular product that lowers pH and total alkalinity of pool water. Also referred to as Sodium Biosulfate.
Enzymes: Used in swimming pool formulations designed to break down and digest oils in a pool or spa.
Foaming: Refers to surface foam found on pool water, especially in spas and hot tubs. Foaming is caused by high TDS levels (see Total Dissolved Solids) working in combination with soft water and oils. Enzymes are used for foam control.
Quick tip:
Certain low grade algaecides can foam when added to your pool or spa.
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Free Chlorine: The portion of chlorine that is actually available to kill bacteria in a swimming pool. This does not include chloramines or chlorine used up by the sun's rays.
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Hydrochloric Acid: A strong acid used to regulate the basicity (pH) of pools and spas.
Hypobromous Acid: A primary chemical compound responsible for sanitation in pools and spas treated with products based on chlorine or bromine.
Iodine: An element related to chlorine and bromine used as a disinfectant. When used, chlorine normally is employed to free the elemental iodine.
Liquid acid: A chemical, either muriatic or hydrochloric, used to reduce pH and total alkalinity. Liquid acid is a dangerous and highly corrosive chemical to be handled with great care.
Make-up Water: Fresh water used to fill or refill the pool.
Muriatic acid: The commercial name for hydrochloric acid. (Also see Liquid acid.)
Non-Chlorine Pool Shock: A granular form of potassium permonosulfate that is added to a swimming pool or spa to oxidize microorganisms, contaminants, or chloramines. Advantages are that it does not require excessive chlorine use, and allows swimming almost immediately after application. Non-chlorine shock does not harm pool liners, and does not upset water balance.
Organic matter: Perspiration, urine, saliva, suntan oil, cosmetics, lotions, dead skin, and similar debris.
ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential): A measure of the oxidizing agents in water, serving as a relative measure of the desired "work value" of a pool sanitizer.
OTO (Orthotolidine. Also see DPD): A liquid test reagent used to determine total chlorine.
pH: A measure of acidity or alkalinity in swimming pool water. The ideal range is 7.2 to 7.6 ppm (parts per million).
Quick tip:
Low pH results in corrosive pool water that can damage pool surfaces and equipment. High pH results in cloudy water and scale formation. Improper pH levels also reduce the effectiveness of chlorine, causing swimmer discomfort.
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Phenol red: A pH indicator that causes the color of a solution to change depending on the pH balance.
Pool Shock: The unstabilized chlorine made up of about 65% chlorine (with a pH of around 11) used to break down water-soluble organic matter.
ppm: Stands for "Parts Per Million," the accepted measurement of chemical concentration in swimming pool water.
Sanitizer: A chemical agent, such as chlorine or bromine, used to remove unwanted contaminants from pool water.
Scale: A hard and rough deposit found on pool surfaces or in swimming pool plumbing. Scale often results from hard water and high pH levels. The crystalline deposits also form on pool surfaces. Eventually its buildup may clog or severely hinder the operation of a swimming pool system. Properly balanced pool water can prevent this.
Sequestering Agent: A chemical or compound that combines with dissolved metals or minerals in the pool water to prevent them from coloring the water or causing stains.
Soda ash: Sodium carbonate, used to raise the pH of pool water.
Sodium bisulfate: See Dry acid.
Sodium Dichlor: A granular form of pool chlorine that is stabilized with cyanuric acid, used for shocking and superchlorinating pools.
Sodium Hypochlorite: A clear liquid compound that has 5% to 16% available chlorine, applied in swimming pools for water disinfection and oxidation. Sodium Hypochlorite works well as a long-term solution because microorganisms cannot build up any resistance to it.
Stabilizer: See Cyanuric acid.
Shock treatment: See Superchlorination.
Superchlorination: Also known as "Shock Treatment," this process involves adding a significant amount of chlorine to a pool to oxidize unwanted organic material and establish a quick free chlorine residual.
Total alkalinity (TA): A condition that affects and controls pH. If TA is too high, pH will be difficult to adjust. If TA is too low, pH will be unstable and difficult to maintain. The ideal TA range is 80-150 ppm (parts per million), depending on the interior swimming pool finish.
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS): The amount of dissolved matter—such as calcium, magnesium, carbonates, etc.—in pool or spa water. To combat TDS accumulation, a pool or spa must be completely drained since TDS continually builds up over time.
Toxic: A chemical state in which a substance has an adverse physiological effect on living things.
TriChlor: A slow-dissolving tablet or stick composed of an organic chlorine compound that provides 90% available chlorine and has a pH of 2.9. Due to its slow-dissolving nature, it must be dispensed using either a floating feeder or an in-line chlorinator. TriChlor also prevents the pool chlorine from being destroyed by the ultraviolet rays of the sun with the help of cyanuric acid.
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